The club, considered the mecca of global techno, is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, and is perhaps the quintessential symbol of the city’s edgy, kinky vibe that Berlin has to offer. Berghain has maintained its status and influence within the global electronic scene, being the most coveted spot for both tourists and locals. But this club is not for everyone. Neither your social status, nor your best outfit, nor your purchasing power will guarantee you entry. Just ask Elon Musk if you don’t trust me.
Here's a little recap of why Berghain is considered as the cathedral of techno.
There are certain key moments that make up the full Berlin experience: visiting the Berlin Wall is one, getting fined for not paying for public transport is another. But heading to the Berghain entrance to try your luck is the most coveted tourist destination in the city, which says a lot considering the immense cultural and historical wealth the German capital holds.
But don’t get discouraged if you get turned away—it’s all part of the experience. Hearing that infamous “heute leider nicht” (today, sadly not) is like, in religious terms, being rejected from heaven by Saint Peter himself. That’s the way it goes at Berghain. In just a few seconds, with a dry gesture and a look that travels up and down your body, the bouncers will decide your fate. Was it my outfit? Did I smile too much? Or not enough? Should I have looked him in the eyes, or not? The only thing certain is that you’re heading home defeated, after hours in the queue and probably wearing something that’s not even your style. But don’t get discouraged; it’s part of the experience, and this writer was rejected 4-5 times before being able to get in.
To understand the origins of the club, we need to go back to Berlin in the '90s. After the fall of the Wall, the city’s East and West sides were reunited, and it quickly became the ideal place for parties. Old power stations, bunkers, and underground spaces hosted raves and techno became the soundtrack of this new era.
Before the fall in East Berlin, a much harder sound was already being cultivated compared to the West. No vocals, no pianos, no trumpets. Industrial sounds were the common denominator in the scene, and the Ostgut club was one of the key venues for those endless dance marathons.
Ostgut was the genesis of what we know today. Founded in 1998, it was a meeting point for the techno scene and a safe haven for the queer community. But even before the opening of the venue, its founders Michael Teufele and Norbert Thormann, defied norms by creating an intermittent underground party called Snax, an ode to Sodom and Gomorrah if we keep the the religious terms, but with clear values: dance, music, art, a little excess, and above all, a space free from prejudice and cheap moralism. These values would later form the foundation of what we know today as Berghain.
By 2003, the owners were forced to leave the original space, but despite everything, this turned out to be an unfortunate blessing in disguise. That’s when they found the 1950s power plant located between Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg, which today bears the name of Berghain. This marked the beginning of the club’s golden era.
The feeling one experiences upon entering Berghain as a beginner, feels like Charlie stepping into Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory for the first time. This is an adult amusement park, and like Disney World, there is only one clear thing: You’ll get lost in its vastness.
While from the outside, Berghain looks like an imposing piece of concrete worthy of that characteristic Soviet industrial architecture, inside, the scale is just as epic. Rooms that reach 40 metres in height, endless staircases, hallways, and dark rooms ensure that first-timers will be left in awe.
The two main rooms capture the essence of everything the Techno-House spectrum has to offer. But if there is one that truly stands out, it’s the Berghain main room. This is where the myths are born, where the club’s legends are written. It’s not just about the size of the room or the unique vibe that accompanies it, which leaves those fortunate enough to get in completely stunned. But it’s the sound system, simply unmatched. Every texture, every frequency, feels as though it’s passing through your body and directly reaching your soul. I still get goosebumps when I think about Adiel’s set, who was in charge of the closing a few Sundays ago. I remember hearing Flight FM by Joy Orbison, one of the biggest hits of the year, and I couldn’t help but think: there’s no better sound system than this.
Panorama Bar shows a friendlier side of the club, with a much broader colour musical palette and House as the main dish. We could be honest and admit that the sound system doesn’t even come close to Berghain’s, but what it lacks in technicality, it more than makes up for in emotional resonance. This is the perfect place to take a breather from the frenetic techno offered downstairs or to do a bit of socialising after hours of trance-inducing dancing. Sitting at the bar, sipping a cocktail, and watching the crowd dominated by the DJ of the moment is an essential experience within the club.
What Panorama Bar lacks in sound, it makes up for in lighting. This aspect is often overlooked at electronic parties, but those who’ve spent hours in the second floor of Berghain can attest to the incredible atmosphere it can create. A word of advice: if your pupils reflect the effects of substances at those early Monday hours, stay away from Panorama Bar before they open the curtains and reveal the harsh light of the real world. This is where all the gargoyles face each other after hours of darkness. Just saying.
The club's opening hours are not for the faint-hearted. While there are occasional parties during the week, the real action begins quietly on Friday night, with Panorama Bar opening until Saturday morning. While it’s not necessary to dig into your darkest clothes to get in that day, the chances of being turned away are still high.
After a quick cleaning and probably a power nap from the staff, the club reopens at midnight on Saturday under what’s known as Klubnacht. Some brave souls stay until Monday morning, while others return after a brief rest. Some shyer personalities just go for a while. But the truth is, these are the hours when techno, excess, and sex become one, giving Berghain the worldwide fame it has today.
The only Goliath that managed to stop this titan of the music industry was, of course, COVID. In early 2020, Berlin began implementing restrictive measures to slow down the global pandemic. Berghain, as we knew it, was closed for 19 months. However, they transformed the venue into an art gallery while the city’s nightlife slept peacefully. During this exhibition, titled Studio Berlin, works by 85 local artists were showcased, including renowned names such as Olafur Eliasson and Wolfgang Tillmans, alongside emerging artists like Shirin Sabahi and Sandra Mujinga. For the first time in 20 years, the strict door policy was relaxed, and those who had been rejected time and time again were allowed to enter, at least to see that sleeping giant.
Now, as the club returns to normalcy, and while there are still challenges left by the pandemic, Berghain remains the ultimate reference for clubbing experiences. The philosophy of this techno giant has inspired its competitors to pay attention to the details, improving the overall quality of the nightlife scene and taking the club culture to new heights.
Despite the commercial pressures and sky-high entry fees post-COVID, Berghain has managed to preserve its authenticity and artistic integrity, becoming a symbol of resistance in electronic music and a sanctuary for those seeking a genuine experience in a space that, despite its seemingly hostile exterior, is safe regardless of your colour, sexual orientation or nationality. This is how it feels for the thousands of people who visit it every weekend.
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, Berghain will pull out the big guns and invite artists who have helped shape the club’s character in a marathon of more than 58 hours of dancing. Some names like Answer Code Request, Fiedel, Marcel Dettmann, and Ben Klock will perform on the main stage, while in Panorama Bar you can find other legends like André Galluzzi, Avalon Emerson, The Blessed Madonna, and Ryan Eliott.
It all kicks off on Friday, December 13th. You can find all the info here
